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Ten African Cities Beyond the Capitals, from Bobo-Dioulasso to Eldoret

10 stops

This trail crosses the Sahel, the Nile valley and the Horn to the East African highlands by way of ten cities that are not national capitals, or in a few cases are capitals of regions or of a contested state. Their beginnings differ, from a trading settlement or a royal camp to a garrison or a farm settlement, but each grew because a route, a market, a war or a government decision gave it a reason to. The stops run roughly from west to east.

Stop 1 of 10.
Cities

Burkina Faso's second-largest city, with 1,129,000 people as of 2023, was founded as Sia in the fifteenth century and became a link in West African trade between the Niger Delta and the Gold Coast. France occupied it in 1897. It is now known as the economic capital, built on agricultural commerce and textile manufacturing.

Stop 2 of 10.
Cities

Niger's third-largest city, about 861 kilometers from Niamey, was made capital of the Sultanate of Damagaram by Kanuri aristocrats in 1736 and became a stop on trans-Saharan routes toward Kano and Bornu. Its population rose from around 50,000 in 1977 to 235,605 at the 2012 census, and the SORAZ refinery, commissioned in 2011, was Niger's first.

Stop 3 of 10.
Cities

Capital of Chad's Ouaddaï Region, about 749 kilometers northeast of N'Djamena, Abéché became the capital of the Wadai Sultanate in the 1890s after the previous capital's wells ran dry. French troops invaded in 1909 and set up a garrison. It remains a cattle-raising center and hosts the country's principal camel market for exports.

Stop 4 of 10.
Cities

A city on the western bank of the Jur River in northwestern South Sudan, Wau grew around Fort Desaix, a French garrison built during the Marchand Mission. It stayed a military post through the Second Sudanese Civil War, with heavy fighting in the 1980s and again in 1998. It is now a trading hub linking Darfur, Bahr al Ghazal and Equatoria, with 320,752 people as of 2022.

Stop 5 of 10.
Cities

Omdurman stands on the west bank of the Nile opposite Khartoum and is Sudan's second most populous city. It was the capital of the Mahdist state in the late nineteenth century and the site of the decisive 1898 Battle of Omdurman. Today it is part of the Khartoum metropolitan area and is known for its large traditional souk and camel market.

Stop 6 of 10.
Cities

Gondar lies north of Lake Tana in Ethiopia's Amhara Region and served as capital of the Ethiopian Empire from the seventeenth to the mid-nineteenth century. Emperor Fasilides chose it as his royal camp in 1636. Its medieval castles and fortified compounds, sometimes called the Camelot of Africa, make the Royal Enclosure a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Stop 7 of 10.
Cities

Capital of Somaliland, which is internationally regarded as part of Somalia, Hargeisa sits at about 1,334 meters in the Galgodon highlands and had roughly 1.2 million people in 2019. Founded around 1860 as an Islamic settlement called Little Harar, it lost about ninety percent of its buildings in the late 1980s. Since 1991 it has been rebuilt largely through remittances and local enterprise.

Stop 8 of 10.
Cities

Hawassa is the capital of Ethiopia's Sidama Region, on Lake Hawassa in the Rift Valley about 273 kilometers south of Addis Ababa. A seasonal palace was ordered on the lakeshore in 1958, and it became capital of the new Sidama Region in June 2020. The Hawassa Industrial Park, opened in 2016 for apparel production, employed more than 35,000 workers at its peak.

Stop 9 of 10.
Cities

Gulu is the commercial center of northern Uganda, about 333 kilometers from Kampala, with 233,271 people at the 2024 census. From the 1990s the region was devastated by the Lord's Resistance Army insurgency. At its worst as many as 15,000 children, known as night commuters, fled into Gulu each evening, and the camps from the 1996 relocation order were not closed until April 2009.

Stop 10 of 10.
Cities

Eldoret in Kenya's Rift Valley grew from a settlement known as Farm 64, named for its distance from the Londiani railhead, after Afrikaner settlers arrived in 1908. It had 475,716 people at the 2019 census and was granted city status on August 15, 2024. It is widely known as a training center for distance runners who have won Olympic and world medals.

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